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Cockburnspath: Gateway between the East March and the Lothians

Cockburnspath, initially known as Kolbrand’s Path in the dark ages, has often been the scene of turmoil, as ownership of the land has been constantly fought over between families, tribes, factions and countries, with frequent shifting and changing of boundaries.  At one time, the lands of the parish were gifted to Margaret Tudor as a wedding gift upon her marriage to James IV of Scotland, a fact commemorated by the thistle and rose on the Mercat Cross in the village Square today.  The area is peppered with archeological remains of burial cists, farmsteads and fortifications which indicate it has been lived in and fought over since the Bronze Age or before.

Steep sided, densely wooded ravines gave the area considerable military significance, with the holder of the Cockburnspath Tower reputed to hold the key to the East March and therefore to the Kingdom of Scotland.  Many armies, including those of King Robert I (The Bruce), and the ‘Roundhead’ forces of Cromwell, negotiated the treacherous ‘deans’, while they acted as havens for bands of reivers and brigands during the middle ages. Over the centuries many have attempted to bridge the deans of the parish, from the Romans through to later bridges used by stagecoaches on the Great North Road, to the modern day engineers who built the road and rail bridges we use today. The Pease Bridge, when built between 1783-86 to a design by David Henderson, was for many years the highest in Europe and pre-dated similar designs used by his contemporary, Thomas Telford.

The area has been a centre for ecclesiastical activity, for over a millennium, with ancient churches in Old Cambus, Cockburnspath and Dunglass, with neighbouring areas of Oldhamstocks and Innerwick also having churches of considerable antiquity.

Of course the history of an area depends as much on its people and there have been many notable sons and daughters of Cockburnspath, including John Broadwood who went on to establish the famous piano-making company, the Halls of Dunglass, the Ushers and others.  The area has also played host to a notable colony of artists and writers over the years, including Sir James Guthrie and the ‘Glasgow Boys’ and writers such as Sir Walter Scott, writer of “Bride of the Lammermoors”, for which he used the spectacular Fast Castle as his inspiration for ‘Ravnswood’ and Robert Burns was also a guest of the Halls at Dunglass. 

 However, much of what has made Cockburnspath such a special place today derives from the many vivid characters who have been the unsung heroes of the community over the years, including fisherfolk, farmers, teachers, ministers; the ordinary men women and children of yesteryear, who have left their mark on the place.  This site sets out to help ensure that today’s community learns to value and cherish the amazing built and cultural heritage we have been endowed with, and augment it, so that future generations will talk of us with the same pride and respect.